TRAVEL Purnululu
Only recently discovered in terms of natural wonder, Aboriginals have known about Purnululu for thousands of years. Once part of a massive cattle station, some of the gorges were used as mustering points to trap the cattle before herding them out. These days it is one of the most visually stunning, world heritage listed, national parks in Australia.
The landscape is 350 million years in the making with deep gorges and the striped sandstone “beehive” domes and surrounded by savannah country. The walking trails lead you to some of the most spectacular sights, and a bird’s eye view from above will just magnify Purnululu’s magic. Whether you decide to commute from the caravan park, bush camp or live it up at the Lodge you will not be disappointed by your experience.
Ready to venture into the most remarkable national park in WA? Here are some things you need to know before you leave the highway.
WORDS & IMAGES BY GLENN MARSHALL
For getting the most out of Purnululu
ABOVE I couldn’t have said it better myself, so I didn’t
Take your time and stop at the water crossings to take some happy snaps. Enjoy the stunning ranges as you twist and wind your way through them. In fact, the drive has to be included as one of the highlights to the park as the scenery is that bloody good.
But I don’t have an air compressor! Well, I’m here to tell you that there’s an air-compressor available for use by all travellers at the Bungle Bungle Caravan Park, so now you have no excuse.
BELOW The corrugations are real, but it makes life easier when you remove that hot air
BELOW Take your time and take in the views
Drop your tyre pressures and slow down
The road into Purnululu is grumbled about by every Tom, Dick and Margaret, mostly because they are ignorant or lazy. Sure, it’s 52km of corrugations, water crossings and the occasional washout, but if you reduce to tyre pressures by at least 30% below your highway pressures and slow down, you’ll find it an absolute invigorating drive.
“The best way to escape the heat and really refresh after a long day exploring Purnululu is in the pool."
ABOVE Just print it out and keep it on your dash or keep a copy on your phone
You must register at the Purnululu Visitors Centre on arrival to the park and show your Parks Pass to the ranger. If you decide not to pre-purchase, you can buy a pass for $13, however, you can only do it during opening hours of 8am – 12noon and 1pm – 4pm daily (early April until mid-October).
BELOW Pre-purchasing a Parks Pass makes it easier to see places like this
BELOW Piccaninny Creek is visually stunning
Pre-purchase your WA Parks Pass
The easiest way to pay for a WA Parks Pass is online before you get there. You have the choice between a holiday pass for $46 (valid for four weeks) or an annual all parks pass for $92. The benefit of a parks pass is it covers several national parks and if you’re exploring the Pilbara, Coral Coast and Kimberley you will save a load of cash. These passes don’t cover camping fees, they are an additional cost.
ABOVE Echidna Gorge at midday is the perfect time
ABOVE Keep an eye out for dinosaurs in Mini Palm Gorge
Kurrajong campground is close to Echidna Chasm, Mini Palms Gorge, Homestead Valley, Stonehenge and Kungkalanayi while Walardi is the nearest campground to Bellburn airstrip, Elephant Rock, Cathedral Gorge, The Window and Piccaninny Creek.
You can pre-purchase online or do it all at the Purnululu Visitor Centre ($13 per adult per night). There is also a Wi-Fi hotspot outside the centre that enables you to pay park entry and camping fees online.
BELOW The Stonehenge trail explains the significance of the trees to the Aboriginals
BELOW The acoustics in Cathedral Gorge will give you goose bumps
Where do you want to camp?
There are two campsites within the national park, Kurrajong to the north and Walardi to the south. Both sites have pit toilets, picnic tables, some shade and water taps (non-potable water). You can get a nice visual of the campgrounds on the Department of Parks and Wildlife page, but they are not always up to date, there was not a blade of green grass to be seen when I was there.
BELOW The only way to see the best of Purnululu is from the air
BELOW HeliSpirit have a good range of flights to choose from
Check it out from the air
The best way to see how stunning Purnululu really is on a scenic helicopter flight with HeliSpirit. Based within the park at Bellburn airstrip you have a few choices of which flight you can enjoy:
- 18-minute domes flight
- 30-minute Bungle Bungle flight
- 42-minute Long Look flight
The most awesome flight on offer is a full day heli-hike that lands you near the mouth of Piccaninny Gorge and where it splits into five fingers. An Aboriginal guide then leads you on a 10km return hike explain the cultural significance of Purnululu. How I wish I had known about this before I left the park!
There’s a minimum of two passengers per flight and free tea and coffee for all passengers. HeliSpirit operates its flights from April through to October.
ABOVE The perfect place to end a day
The best way to escape the heat and really refresh after a long day exploring Purnululu is in the pool. The water will certainly take your breath away, but it will help cool down your core and get you ready for an evening under the stars.
All meals are prepared onsite by the experienced chefs with breakfast, lunch and dinner available. The Bungles Bar is open daily and there is no better way to finish the day sitting next to a fire with a beverage, chatting with fellow travellers.
BELOW The Savannah Lodge cabins were the comfort I needed after so many nights in a swag
BELOW A pool has never been so welcomed
Do it in style
The Bungle Bungle Savannah Lodge is the most comfortable place to immerse yourself in Purnululu. Located within the national park you will enjoy the ambience and the comfort of a modern cabin with ensuite. The lodge relies totally on solar power to keep it running and thankfully the hot water is backed up by LPG gas as it can be very cold in the mornings.
BELOW Water from the taps is suitable for monkeys, but not humans
BELOW I was drinking more water than this each day
Bring heaps of water
Dehydration is a real risk in the Kimberley, especially during the dry season. Temperatures can get hot and hiking along trails to visit gorges can use up a lot of energy and make you sweat more so you need to replenish what you lose. There are water taps at both campgrounds, but the water is not suitable for drinking.
Remember that in conditions like this you should carry 10 litres of water per person per day. Don’t just carry it though, make sure you use it. The Royal Flying Doctor recommends you may need to drink a litre of water every hour if you are not used to the hot, dry conditions.
ABOVE There are a couple of Bower Bird nests if you keep your eye out
DESTINATION DETAILS
WHERE IT’S AT: Purnululu is located 300km south of Kununurra and 160km north of Halls Creek.
TRIP STANDARD: Purnululu is only accessible for 4WD vehicles and single-axle off-road camper trailers and off-road caravans.
TIME TO GO: April to December (conditions permitting) but the coolest (and busiest) period is June to August.
WHAT TO TAKE: Drinking water, food, air compressor, tyre repair kit, wide-brimmed hat, sunscreen, bug repellent, a sense of adventure, your credit card (for that last-minute flight). No food is sold at the Visitors Centre, only cool drinks. Closest fuel is at Warmum Roadhouse 55km north of the Purnululu turn off.
MORE INFO:
WA DPAW
Visit Kununurra
Ready to venture into the most remarkable national park in WA? Here are some things you need to know before you leave the highway.
Only recently discovered in terms of natural wonder, Aboriginals have known about Purnululu for thousands of years. Once part of a massive cattle station, some of the gorges were used as mustering points to trap the cattle before herding them out. These days it is one of the most visually stunning, world heritage listed, national parks in Australia.
The landscape is 350 million years in the making with deep gorges and the striped sandstone “beehive” domes and surrounded by savannah country. The walking trails lead you to some of the most spectacular sights, and a bird’s eye view from above will just magnify Purnululu’s magic. Whether you decide to commute from the caravan park, bush camp or live it up at the Lodge you will not be disappointed by your experience.
WORDS & IMAGES BY GLENN MARSHALL
For getting the most out of Purnululu
TRAVEL Purnululu
Drop your tyre pressures and slow down
The road into Purnululu is grumbled about by every Tom, Dick and Margaret, mostly because they are ignorant or lazy. Sure, it’s 52km of corrugations, water crossings and the occasional washout, but if you reduce to tyre pressures by at least 30% below your highway pressures and slow down, you’ll find it an absolute invigorating drive.
Take your time and stop at the water crossings to take some happy snaps. Enjoy the stunning ranges as you twist and wind your way through them. In fact, the drive has to be included as one of the highlights to the park as the scenery is that bloody good.
But I don’t have an air compressor! Well, I’m here to tell you that there’s an air-compressor available for use by all travellers at the Bungle Bungle Caravan Park, so now you have no excuse.
ABOVE I couldn’t have said it better myself, so I didn’t
BELOW Take your time and take in the views
BELOW The corrugations are real, but it makes life easier when you remove that hot air
“The best way to escape the heat and really refresh after a long day exploring Purnululu is in the pool."
Pre-purchase your WA Parks Pass
The easiest way to pay for a WA Parks Pass is online before you get there. You have the choice between a holiday pass for $46 (valid for four weeks) or an annual all parks pass for $92. The benefit of a parks pass is it covers several national parks and if you’re exploring the Pilbara, Coral Coast and Kimberley you will save a load of cash. These passes don’t cover camping fees, they are an additional cost.
You must register at the Purnululu Visitors Centre on arrival to the park and show your Parks Pass to the ranger. If you decide not to pre-purchase, you can buy a pass for $13, however, you can only do it during opening hours of 8am – 12noon and 1pm – 4pm daily (early April until mid-October).
ABOVE Just print it out and keep it on your dash or keep a copy on your phone
BELOW Piccaninny Creek is visually stunning
BELOW Pre-purchasing a Parks Pass makes it easier to see places like this
ABOVE Echidna Gorge at midday is the perfect time
Where do you want to camp?
There are two campsites within the national park, Kurrajong to the north and Walardi to the south. Both sites have pit toilets, picnic tables, some shade and water taps (non-potable water). You can get a nice visual of the campgrounds on the Department of Parks and Wildlife page, but they are not always up to date, there was not a blade of green grass to be seen when I was there.
Kurrajong campground is close to Echidna Chasm, Mini Palms Gorge, Homestead Valley, Stonehenge and Kungkalanayi while Walardi is the nearest campground to Bellburn airstrip, Elephant Rock, Cathedral Gorge, The Window and Piccaninny Creek.
You can pre-purchase online or do it all at the Purnululu Visitor Centre ($13 per adult per night). There is also a Wi-Fi hotspot outside the centre that enables you to pay park entry and camping fees online.
ABOVE Keep an eye out for dinosaurs in Mini Palm Gorge
BELOW The acoustics in Cathedral Gorge will give you goose bumps
BELOW The Stonehenge trail explains the significance of the trees to the Aboriginals
Check it out from the air
The best way to see how stunning Purnululu really is on a scenic helicopter flight with HeliSpirit. Based within the park at Bellburn airstrip you have a few choices of which flight you can enjoy:
- 18-minute domes flight
- 30-minute Bungle Bungle flight
- 42-minute Long Look flight
The most awesome flight on offer is a full day heli-hike that lands you near the mouth of Piccaninny Gorge and where it splits into five fingers. An Aboriginal guide then leads you on a 10km return hike explain the cultural significance of Purnululu. How I wish I had known about this before I left the park!
There’s a minimum of two passengers per flight and free tea and coffee for all passengers. HeliSpirit operates its flights from April through to October.
BELOW HeliSpirit have a good range of flights to choose from
BELOW The only way to see the best of Purnululu is from the air
The best way to escape the heat and really refresh after a long day exploring Purnululu is in the pool. The water will certainly take your breath away, but it will help cool down your core and get you ready for an evening under the stars.
All meals are prepared onsite by the experienced chefs with breakfast, lunch and dinner available. The Bungles Bar is open daily and there is no better way to finish the day sitting next to a fire with a beverage, chatting with fellow travellers.
ABOVE The perfect place to end a day
BELOW A pool has never been so welcomed
BELOW The Savannah Lodge cabins were the comfort I needed after so many nights in a swag
Do it in style
The Bungle Bungle Savannah Lodge is the most comfortable place to immerse yourself in Purnululu. Located within the national park you will enjoy the ambience and the comfort of a modern cabin with ensuite. The lodge relies totally on solar power to keep it running and thankfully the hot water is backed up by LPG gas as it can be very cold in the mornings.
BELOW I was drinking more water than this each day
BELOW Water from the taps is suitable for monkeys, but not humans
Bring heaps of water
Dehydration is a real risk in the Kimberley, especially during the dry season. Temperatures can get hot and hiking along trails to visit gorges can use up a lot of energy and make you sweat more so you need to replenish what you lose. There are water taps at both campgrounds, but the water is not suitable for drinking.
Remember that in conditions like this you should carry 10 litres of water per person per day. Don’t just carry it though, make sure you use it. The Royal Flying Doctor recommends you may need to drink a litre of water every hour if you are not used to the hot, dry conditions.
ABOVE There are a couple of Bower Bird nests if you keep your eye out
DESTINATION DETAILS
WHERE IT’S AT: Purnululu is located 300km south of Kununurra and 160km north of Halls Creek.
TRIP STANDARD: Purnululu is only accessible for 4WD vehicles and single-axle off-road camper trailers and off-road caravans.
TIME TO GO: April to December (conditions permitting) but the coolest (and busiest) period is June to August.
WHAT TO TAKE: Drinking water, food, air compressor, tyre repair kit, wide-brimmed hat, sunscreen, bug repellent, a sense of adventure, your credit card (for that last-minute flight). No food is sold at the Visitors Centre, only cool drinks. Closest fuel is at Warmum Roadhouse 55km north of the Purnululu turn off.
MORE INFO:
WA DPAW
Visit Kununurra